I have a set of Ercol chairs, beech framed in beech with elm seats that I would like to refurbish. We want to retain the natural wood colour. If you have any questions regarding the above, please feel free to contact us. Thank you for your enquiry. A good choice will be the Colron Refined Beeswax which comes in a Natural Clear or some subtle colour finishes. Old wood can react differently to new wood. Is this what you have ? Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. While assembling it together we also need to use a hammer here and there. It’s a synthesized drying oil with similar properties minus the discoloration (yellowing). It does get a bettering from the west but still looks virtually newish. It will darken the tone slightly and give the ‘wet look’, enhancing the grain. This is a penetrative oil that colours and protects at the same time with just two thin coats required for a finish. I would advice sanding to a 120 as the last sand, its the ideal grit for most treatments, and 80grit sand will open up the grain a little more than required and you could get a rough finish or use more of the product that expected. What the current finish is ? If you like the look of silvery grey weathered wood, you may be considering leaving your project bare and avoiding the time and expense associated with applying and maintaining a finish. They work extremely well and are actually regenerated as they do their job instead of being consumed by it. I have a very old and dark oak front door that over the past thirty years has been preserved with Barratine dark preserve , Danish oil or whatever was around at the time though suitable. A good way to demonstrate this it to go to Google Image Search and type in ‘medium Oak wood’. Before application I would advice wiping the surface down with Barrettine Methylated Spirits first to remove the natural oils that sanding will have exposed. Penetrating finishes are made to soak into the wood surface and seal it from water. Hi im making a chess board out of walnut and beach, what would the best finish to use? You can send me some photos of the finish that you are looking to achieve to wfd.advice@wood-finishes-direct.com and I will happily take a look. Pigments act like sunscreen the darker and denser the pigment the more the protection against the suns UV damage. Paints provide the best protection because the pigments that give them their color also block the UV from reaching the surface of the wood or beyond the surface of the paint itself. Although the moisture content (MC) of wood varies with relative humidity because all finishes allow water vapor to pass through them, we need to seal the wood from excess water which can lead to decay. Trees are naturally growing organisms, with their own unique DNA and as with most living things, are sensitive and adaptive to the environmental conditions they grow in. Thank you for your advice. Clear film forming finishes are the best choice if you want to maximize the depth and beauty of the wood, bringing out its natural color, grain, and figure while protecting it from wear, weathering, and decay. "Since Iroko has good weathering properties, it's a decent substitute for teak and even shares a similar color range. This is why manufacturers rarely give a stipulated life expectancy of a product. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page. I have Iroko gates, which have now been outside for three years, painted with three coats of Jotun Butinox 1 and frankly I cannot see any deterioration. I hope that helps and if you have any further question please do not hesitate to get back in touch. Outdoor wood furniture needs a good finish. Test areas are recommended for both recommendations and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. Would you prefer varnish or oil ? But you are able to re-stain should you find the water test shows that clear varnish is not dark enough, the Manns Classic Pine Stain is a good option. There’s give and take in the selection process – for example, the finishes that are easiest to apply and maintain don’t last as long as others and the ones that last longest are more work and more expensive. Thanks. It is hard wearing and durable for your flooring. What you would like the finishes to look like, natural or coloured? I am in the process of making a gate out of idigbo and would like to know what finish to use ,I prefer not to paint but various web sites say don’t use oils. Wood that’s weathered for a day or longer should not be painted without sanding first. The original Sikins finish of 10 years ago no longer looks good so I removed the 4×4’s last fall and stored them in the garage for the winter. What do you recommend for this. Many thanks I’ve initially tried a Danish oil as a test patch on one of the pearlings and found it darkened the wood instantly. Don’t mind reapplying the finish every couple of years but don’t want to have to strip the bench down and go through the laborious process of preparation every time. Using an oil with UV filters will also help to protect the colour of the stain. Decking Oil is a very versatile oil and can be used for a wide range of projects. Test areas are always recommended to ensure that you like the finish to be achieved. I must state however that if you move forward with an oil it can invalidate any guarantee that you have with the doors. John. It would be fair to say that a clear product will allow the wood to silver naturally, however there are UV Filters in this product that help to slow down that process. Another option to consider if you are looking to add some colour is the Holzol Furniture Oil Tints this is a slightly thinner oil than many of the standards and so may work better with the oak, and has a range of colours should you want to add a little colour to the wood. Teak oil and generic outdoor decking oil on the other hand are commonly used finishes for decking and all types of garden furniture. We would however like to put some sort of protective coating on it, something that will bring out the character. As it is unlikely to be exposed to moisture or dirt this should suffice. A product colour on one monitor may look different on another and different again on another. The Decking oil is thin enough that it will still penetrate the surface to give effective protection with just two very thin coats. Not solely will this wood explore the business, however its characteristics are excellent for out of doors use. But if you send me some photos I may be able to help further. And if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch with your enquiry via our contact us page. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to let me know. Oils and varnishes are not compatible! Thank you so much for your advice – I’ll test with the oil first as you suggest. If protected correctly with a suitable preservative and finished in the correct way, they will perform very well in external environments and could last a life time if maintained correctly. We are thinking of having a matt finish. Work in the direction of the grain and sand the whole surface evenly. Two thin coats are all that is required and I would strongly recommend a test area first to ensure you like the finish that will be achieved. The higher quality products need to be refreshed every 3-6 months depending on the climate and exposure conditions. To achieve the greatest level of protection, the longest lasting compatible absorber is added to the finish and multiple coats are applied which builds up the depth and concentration of the absorber. If you take a look at those and feel free to get back to me with any questions you may have via our contact us page. Exposure to sunlight and water erodes the surface of the wood. Generally, it contains boiled linseed or tung oil as the main ingredient as well as mould inhibitors and chemicals that filter harmful ultraviolet rays. It will depend on the products you are using as well. So you could have a look at applying a Wax. I would have to start with recommending a cleaner to remove all the algae the Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner Spray is great for this. This wood material also doesn't require regular varnishing or similar treatments. The natural colouration of the timber will also have an effect on the final colour if treating the wood with a pigmented or coloured product. If no, what else could we do? But they are large enough to block UV light which has a shorter wavelength. Generally speaking, If the wood has been prepared correctly and the product has been applied correctly, surface coatings such as paints and varnishes tend to have a longer service life than waxes and oils, potentially lasting many years before requiring attention. High quality products provide the longest lasting protection of all exterior finishes. So What Is It Exactly? Takes a lot to fill the grain, but otherwise a very nice wood. We bought a bed and side tables of pine wood, couple of days back. This painted gazebo is beautiful with natural wood decking. You could start by looking at the Manns Classic Oak Stain to achieve a transparent colour, this stain is very versatile and can be lightened by adding water, applied in a number of coats to intensify colour of mixed with other colours to create a whole new colour. SHELL Mass-pigmented shell (gloss outside)The shell, made from polycarbonate through injection molding, is mass-pigmented in the colors white or black and has a standard double finish: gloss outside, and ⦠And additives like biocides improve the performance and longevity of the paint. So a little goes a long way. Hi, I’m replacing my kitchen plinths and have bought solid oak. I have engineered real wood, dark stained floorboards throughout the downstairs. Can you oil then varnish? Hi, I have an exterior bench made from Douglas Fir. For a natural look and feel you could have a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil this is a sealer that soaks into the surface of the wood and requires just two very thin coats, it is easy to apply, clean and maintain over time. It consists of a series of 4×4’s resting on on cantalivered metal brackets bolted into a concrete wall. Thank you for your inquiry it would be fair to say that the Ronseal Diamond Hard Coloured Floor Varnis would be a good option. When we are asked what product is best to achieve a Medium Oak or a Victorian Pine colour, our first response is ‘define what colour Medium Oak or Victorian Pine is? Similar products include Danish Oil, Antique Oil, and Velvet Oil. It is dirty Sinai intend to brush off then wash….and would like to know what you recommend I preserve it with for now and future years. We found this cool Landshark bench at a beach restaurant it was sitting outside neglected, so we bought it from them. Catherine. ... read our usage guides to make sure you get the best finish possible. This is similar to the point above. To keep the wood protected, simply apply a fresh maintenance coat of oil once or twice a year as required. Or the Osmo Wood Wax Extra Thin which will last longer with just two thin coats required. Highly durable and resistant to rot and insect infiltration, Iroko is an ultra-versatile choice for flooring and even boat-building. I will be happy to make some recommendations, can you tell me if these projects are all bare wood ? Wiping a damp cloth over the surface of the bare wood will give you an idea of how much a clear varnish will darken the tone of the wood. Clear film formers bring out the beauty and depth of the wood. It dries to a hard protective finish that leaves the wood looking and feeling very natural. Once planed all that is required is to treat the wood with a wood preserver and then a finishing product. Teak and generic outside decking oil preserve the natural look of your decking by penetrating the wood, providing nourishment and helping protect it against mildew and algae. If this happens the only option is to sand again taking extra care to sand properly. Depending on the product, you may see dehydrated castor oil in place of the Tung Oil. There are actually some softwoods that are harder than some hardwoods and some hardwoods that are softer than some softwoods. Once you have the wood as you want and ready for application you could have a look at the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin this is a protective hard wax oil that is suited for use on hardwoods such as Teak, it will give a longer lasting and more protective finish than a wax. HELP!! Note that applying stains requires a good technique to avoid creating lap marks (stripes). With its collections entirely dedicated to the outdoor, Roda is one of the best outdoor furniture brands among the design companies of Made-in-Italy. Interior wood oils for floors and kitchen worktops are highly durable, potentially lasting years but unlike a varnish, there is never a need to sand them off when they start to look tired and worn. Some woods that fit the description are accoya, catalpa, cedar (Spanish, western red, eastern white, or Alaskan yellow), chestnut, cypress (old growth is best), ipe, juniper, locust (black), mahogany (Honduras or African), mesquite, mulberry, oak (bur, white), redwood (old growth is best), sassafras, teak (old growth is best), walnut, yew, and pressure treated lumber. If yes, do you have a product you could recommend? I want to keep the wood on show as much as possible to show off its natural look. This category of exterior wood finishes brings out the color of the wood gives it a natural look for a short time (before it starts to weather and turn grey). If you have a look at these product and do feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions. Thank you for coming to us with your questions. The advantage they offer is they are easier to apply and recoat than paint and because they are not as thick they allow some of the natural texture of the wood to show. Solid colored stains fall between paint and semi-transparent stains in terms of protection. It is a common product recommended for beams and is easy to apply and can be applied as often as you would like to refresh the appearance of the wood.
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